Pan-fried Lam T-bones with Harissa and Bulgar Wheat Salad
This is an episode of Tyler’s Ultimate that I’ve had on my list to repeat for many months now.  Having been inspired by a friend’s recent dinner party where we had a wonderful spicy lamb stew, I thought it was time to go after this recipe.  This dish is Moroccan in origin and inspiration.  I love the flavors from this region as it can really make you feel like you’re having a taste experience.  I had high hopes for this one and wasn’t disappointed.

The dish itself is three parts.  First is the Harissa sauce, a roasted red pepper and chile pepper base with a mixture of cumin, coriander, caraway, garlic, chiles, salt, olive oil, and lemon juice.  This sauce alone is worth repeating and using as a companion to almost any protein.  The chiles give it some pop, but they are not overwhelming.  It’s just a really refreshing addition to many meals.  The second part of the recipe is cooking the lamb.  The recipe calls for lamb chops.  My store wasn’t carrying lamb chops at the time, but did have some nice lamb t-bones which I gladly tried and it was a very suitable substitute.  The third part of the dish is a bulgar wheat salad with figs reconstituted with warm water and honey, cilantro, Italian parsley, almonds, mint, and other seasonings.  You will feel like you had dinner in Marrakesh!

You can find the recipe online at the Food Network at this address:
http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/pan-fried-lamb-chops-with-harissa-recipe/index.html

Harissa Sauce:
2 red bell peppers
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 garlic cloves
2 small fresh red chiles, chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 lemon, juiced

Bulgur Wheat Salad:
2 1/2 cups boiling water
1 cup medium-grind bulgur wheat
1/2 lemon, juiced
Kosher salt
1 cup dried figs
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/4 cup hot water
1/2 cup smoked almonds
1/2 cup chopped green onions
1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves
1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Ground black pepper
Lemon juice, if needed

Lamb
Extra-virgin olive oil
6 double lamb chops, frenched
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Harissa Sauce

Mis en place harissa sauce

First thing I would do is take the lamb out of the refrigerator so it can start warming up.  We’ll get to it later in the article.

Then we’ll start one of the three parts of this recipe by working on the Harissa sauce.  I’m showing on my board two Fresno chiles and two red bell peppers.  Depending on your market you may find any number of chiles and picking between them can be daunting if there is a big selection.  The recipe just says “red chiles” which leaves the field wide open these days.  First, I would say to make sure you’re getting a fresh pepper.  If you chop up a dried pepper then you’re likely to have tough bits of skin in the sauce which would not be appetizing.  I chose these red Fresno peppers which turned out to be  great choice.  Not only do they have great color, but they also had just the right amount of heat for me.  I don’t like things too mild or too hot.  So if you have access to these and are trying to make the sauce hit the middle of the road taste for heat then pick Fresno’s.  Sometimes red peppers aren’t in season.  If you don’t have them in the market I would suggest going after one of the good jar varieties of roasted pepper.  In fact, if you’re looking to save some time you could jump right there.

We’ll start by roasting the red peppers over an open flame.  You can do this on your cooktop like I am or this could also be done on a baking sheet under the broiler too.  I think it’s easier to get an even roasting when you do it over an open flame because you can use your tongs to turn the pepper as needed.

Roasted pepper

Don’t worry about this pepper looking like it has been scorched within an inch of its life.  That’s what is supposed to happen.  We’ll be peeling away this tougher outer skin later.  The skin imparts the intense heat to inside of the pepper without the meat of the pepper burning.  In fact, if you don’t get this level of cooking onto the pepper you will not be able to skin it.  So don’t be afraid.  You can always toss it in the sink if it catches on fire. :-)

After you’ve roasted both peppers to look like the photo above, place both inside some plastic wrap or a plastic bag.  This will retain the heat and further steam the pepper making it easier to pull the skin off.  Let the peppers steam and cool down for at least 10 minutes or until they are cool enough to handle.

Measure out the cumin, coriander, and caraway seeds and spread out in the bottom of a skillet and put it on the cooktop over low to medium heat.  This is what they call “toasting” the spices.  It’s a process that helps to release all the goodness and also imparts a bit of nutty flavor to it in the process.  No need to get these really hot.  When you can start to smell them you are done.  Make sure you remove them from the pan to your spice grinder or mortar and pestle right away so they don’t continue to toast and then burn with the pan heat.

Pan toast spices, cumin, coriander, and caraway seeds

I use a dedicated Krups coffee grinder to grind spices, separate from another coffee grinder.  They’re about $20 at most department stores and you’ll want to make sure you don’t grind coffee in here after you’re done or your spouse will switch coffee brands every day for a month wondering what has happened to the coffee or the water.  But believe me when I tell you that when you pull the lid off this after it has been ground that you’ll want to take a deep whiff to take in all of those wonderful smells.

Ground toasted cumin, coriander, and caraway seeds

Seed and chop the Fresno chile peppers.  This is much like seeding and chopping a regular green or red pepper.  The inside structure is the same, just longer.  If you are into more heat from your peppers you can keep a few of the seeds and toss them in too since much of the heat of a pepper is actually sitting in the seeds.

Fresno peppers

By now the roasted peppers will be cool enough to handle.  Take them out of the plastic wrap or plastic bag and begin to peel the pepper by using your fingers.  If it’s roasted well enough and thoroughly around the whole pepper, the skin should just slide or peel off with ease.  You don’t need to worry about getting every last speck of black char off the pepper.  There is some good flavor in those specks as they ride along.  You just can’t take them all because of the texture and color they would impart on the sauce.  Cut the top off the pepper, seed it, and then chop it into pieces to make it easy to go the rest of the way to a puree in the food processor.

Peel roasted peppers

Load the food processor with all the ingredients for the Harissa sauce, roasted bell peppers, Fresno chile peppers, garlic, toasted spice blend, tsp kosher salt, 3 tbsp of extra-virgin olive oil, 1/2 lemon juiced.

Processing harissa

Pulse the mixture in your food processor until it has been pureed. Depending on the colors of your peppers your sauce may have a slightly different color than what you see below.

Moroccan Harissa Sauce

Pour this into a serving bowl or dish if you want your guests to serve themselves.  Otherwise, just set the processor bowl aside and retrieve it when you’re ready to plate the whole meal.

Wheat Bulgar Salad

Mis en place bulgar wheat salad

As you can see, there are a lot of great things in the bulgar wheat salad.  The instructions below are pretty much as the recipe has them.  But to be honest I think next time I might do the trick I was taught by my mother-in-law and sister-in-law which is to squeeze the moisture out of the bulgar after it has steeped.  I thought the salad turned out a little sticky overall and was looking for ways to lighten or fluff it up (see thoughts and suggestions below).

First, place the bulgar in a dry skillet pan and toast  over low to medium heat for about 5 minutes.  Then add the juice of 1/2 lemon and stir.

Toasted bulgar

Transfer the bulgar and lemon juice to a medium bowl.

Soaking bulgar

Pour 2.5 cups of boiling water over the bulgar and stir in 1/2 tsp of salt.  Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the bulgar absorb the hot water.

Steeping bulgar

Tyler’s recipe uses quite a lot of water for the bulgar and my bulgar did not soak it all up.  So I drained it after it looked like it had pulled in all the moisture it was going to (20 min).  As I was shown by my Middle Eastern cooks, next time I will take handfuls of it and squeeze any excess water out of it as well, similar to the tabouleh recipe earlier in the blog.  I think that will give this a fluffier texture.

The recipe calls for figs.  If you live in an area like California where you can get lots of fresh figs then you won’t have to do the reconstitution that I did and the recipe calls for.  I have dried California figs and put 1 cup of figs into a small bowl.  Add 1 tbsp of honey, 1 tsp of lemon juice, and 1/4 cup of hot water.  Stir and try to submerge the figs as much as possible.  Circle back every now and then and stir again.  The figs will gradually soak up some of the hot water and tasty liquid and become plump again.  If you already have fresh figs I would think that you could cut them in half and then combine them with maybe a tablespoon or two of room temperature water, honey, and lemon juice and have roughly the same idea.

Reconstituting figs with hot water and honey

Chop the scallions, cilantro, parsley, and mint.  Drain and fluff the bulgar wheat.  Strain the figs and keep the juice if you want a nice sweet liquor to enjoy later or pour on some ice cream.  I confess I just swigged it on the spot….gooodddd.  Add the figs and almonds to the bulgar and stir.  Then add all of the chopped herbs to the bowl along with the olive oil and stir together.

Mix bulgar wheat salad

Take a sample of the mixture.  Add more salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste.  I ended up adding quite a lot of lemon juice and some more salt.

You should end up with a salad mixture that looks something like this.

Bulgar wheat salad closeup

Okay, we’re getting close now.  Hopefully you took your lamb out of the refrigerator before you started so that it’s already coming to room temperature.  A regular lamb chop is not usually going to be as thick as these t-bones are.  I wanted to have medium rare meat, but I didn’t want to overcook the outside.  Therefore, it’s key that you begin to raise the temperature of the meat before you actually pan fry it.  The same technique can be used on thick cuts of beef steak and even thick chicken breasts.  This works best if you have a good thermometer that you can test the inside temperature of the meat before you start cooking.  For beef and lamb I will go ahead and put the meat in a baking dish like the one above and put it into a 200 degree oven.  What you want to do is gently bring the inside of the meat up to 90-100 degrees without really cooking the outside.  Go ahead and drizzle olive oil over the lamb and give it a liberal amount of salt and fresh ground black pepper and place into a pre-heated 200 degree oven.  Make sure your oven is pre-heated to 200 first even though that is a low temperature.  That’s because you don’t want the coils of your oven providing so much infrared heat that it cooks the outside of the lamb before it ever goes to the pan.

Salt and pepper lamb t-bones

Keep an eye on it in the oven.  The outsides should never go brown from the heat.  The brown you see on mine below is from the seasonings dissolving into the meat.  I raised the internal temperature of these t-bones to about 100 degrees F before going to the pan with them.

Pre-warm lamb t-bones

The recipe that is for lamb chops says to cook them for 8.5 minutes per side for medium rare.  If you pre-heat the meat as we’ve done here, it should not take that long…maybe 4 minutes per side, max.  Use your finger to press into the cooked side of the meat after you’ve turned it.  It should not be really soft nor should it feel like a stiff book either.  Cook it until it starts to give some resistance and then transfer to a plate or cutting board and let it rest with a sheet of tin foil over the top for about five minutes.

Pan-fried lamb t-bones

I tried out a few plating ideas.  The two that seemed to work the best were the one at the top of the article and this one below where I snuggled the Harissa sauce around the lamb.  It’s really up to you and I would love to hear any suggestions you might have.  Don’t go easy on the Harissa sauce.  You’ll want some with every bite and then you’ll want to mix it in with the bulgar salad and maybe even lick the spoon and the serving bowl when no one is looking.

Pan-fried Lamb T-bone With Harissa and Bulgar Fig Salad

Would I make any changes?

- The Harissa sauce was wonderful and so I wouldn’t change a thing.
- The recipe calls for and I would definitely keep in the fresh chile peppers in the Harissa sauce.  Don’t go with dried chile peppers or flakes.
- I would definitely wring out any remaining moisture from the bulgar by taking a handful and literally squeezing any water out of it like the Middle Eastern cooks do.
- I might even consider lowering the amount of bulgar in this dish so that the grains don’t have a chance to stick together as much.
- I definitely would not hesitate to add more lemon juice to the salad after it has been mixed.

I would love to hear how this turns out for you.

This French dish was featured on a recent episode of Tyler Florence’s “Tyler’s Ultimate” show and is one of the tastiest things I’ve prepared in a while.  It was followed by a wonderful dessert of lemon pudding cake which I have previously written about.

I’m sure I could have done a better job on the photography (was experimenting with 100% natural light) as a photo doesn’t do justice to the wonderful flavors that combine from the seared scallops, the rich beurre blanc sauce, and the flaky texture of the puff pastry.  The mixed spring vegetables blanched in salty water give wonderful color and some tooth to the dish.

This is the most complicated of the dishes that I’ve written about so far.  It’s really several recipes in one dish. There are enough ingredients all along the way that even though there are three distinct parts, I would get all parts prepared first.  Have everything chopped, measured, and laid out so it’s ready to go.  You’ll be surprised at how much easier it is to put together a more complex dish this way.

We’ll start out by preparing the beurre blanc sauce.   This is French white (blanc) butter (beurre) sauce.

Each of these ingredients enriches the flavor of this sauce.  It includes 2 shallots, 8 sprigs of thyme, 2 bay leaves, 1/4-1/2 cup of heavy cream, 2 sticks of unsalted butter, 2 tbsp of chopped chives.  In Tyler’s recipe the base of this sauce was 2 cups of dry white wine and one cup of white wine vinegar.  After reading  a number of the comments on the Food Network website it was clear that most people were very unhappy with how much vinegar was in this and how sharp it tasted.  So I opted to have three cups of wine rather than the two, substituting an additional cup of chardonnay for the cup of vinegar.  It turned out really nicely and unless you’re planning to do this over and over to experiment I would suggest going with all wine.  By the way, 3 cups of wine is the contents of exactly one normal wine bottle.  So save yourself some measuring time and just pour it all in.

In a medium sauce pan add the shallots, wine, fresh thyme sprigs, and bay leaves.

Bring this to a simmer and reduce the volume by about half.  Reducing, if you don’t know, is the process of gently boiling a liquid until some of it evaporates.  This is a common technique to concentrate flavors.  In this case we’re reducing the wine and infusing it with the good flavors of the shallots, thyme, and bay leaves, leaving a perfect base for the sauce.  By boiling the wine, the alcohol is evaporated leaving the rest of the essence of the wine.  Go ahead and season the liquid with about a tsp of salt and about the same of pepper.

Once the seasoning is dissolved go ahead and strain the liquid by pouring it through a strainer into another bowl.  Then pour the strained liquid back into the sauce pan and place back over a low heat and bring it back to a simmer.

Add the cream to the wine reduction and stir it in with a whisk and let the mixture come back up to almost simmering.

Have the butter chopped up into about six pieces per stick and begin to add the butter a few pieces at a time while you stir or whisk the mixture.  Allow the butter to melt and incorporate before adding more.

If you’re going to move on to cooking the rest of the recipe you may want to go ahead and add the chives now (the chopped up green part of the green onion).  Otherwise, hold the chives until right before you serve the sauce over the plate.

In Tyler’s episode he started the puff pastry first and I’m not sure quite why.  It does not take long to cook, 15 minutes, and it would be nice to have it warm on the plate when you serve it.  I dutifully followed the directions and the puff pastry was done and cold long before the rest of the meal.  That’s why I’m suggesting you get it ready now.  No one in their right mind really makes puff pastry from scratch.  It’s hard to do and it’s time consuming.  Just buy it out of the freezer case at your local grocery store in a section you may be used to walking by.  It’s usually next to the frozen pie crusts.

The tricky thing about puff pastry is that the dough comes frozen and it has a lot of butter in it.  You need to have thawed the dough, but it can’t be done while sitting on the counter or the butter will melt.  The best thing you can do is to plan ahead and buy the puff pastry frozen and put it in your refrigerator compartment a day before you plan to cook.

In a normal box of dough you will have two sheets that are folded in thirds.  You will only need one sheet for this recipe. Lightly flour the surface that you will be working with this dough so that it will live off your board surface easily.  Unfold it and you will likely see the dough has some cracks where the folds were.  Use your rolling pin to lightly smooth out the cracks.  They won’t completely disappear and you don’t need them to.

If you have a round cookie or biscuit cutter that’s great.  Otherwise you can use a paring knife to scribe a circle in the dough.  The cutters I’m showing here are 4 1/2″ in diameter.  The size is not critical though you do want them big enough to take a center position on the plate and provide enough space to accommodate a couple of scallops.

Go ahead and press the cutter all the way through.

If you have a slightly smaller cutter, go ahead and lightly press a mark into the dough.  This will later be used as the mark to run a knife through the pastry to take the “lid” off and expose the interior of the puff pastry after it has been cooked

Lift the edge of the puff pastry sheet and peel it away which should expose the four round pastries.  If you floured your board it should be easy to lift them off and place them on a cookie sheet with parchment paper or a silpat mat underneath.  If you’re like me and you forgot to flour your board then you have a little bit bigger chore.  I used a pancake spatula to gently lift them from the board.

I mention parchment paper or silpat.  Silpat is a silicon based mat that can sit in the bottom of a cookie sheet and it provides a wonderful stick free surface.  It works great for this type of baking and you may never go back after cooking your next batch of cookies on it.  It’s a simple soap and water cleanup and you will never burn anything to the bottom of your baking sheet.  Parchment paper works similarly only you just throw away the parchment paper after you’re done.  Parchment paper can usually be found in the baking isle of your grocery store.  Silpats can be found in almost any cooking store as well as places like “Bed, Bath, and Beyond”.

In a small bowl, beat one egg.  With a brush or the back of spoon lightly brush this egg wash over the top of the puff pastries.  This will help give the top a nice crispy texture and wonderful golden color.

Follow the directions on your puff pastry box, but it’s likely that you’ll cook these on 350 for about 15 minutes.  I am not a precise cook when it comes to time because the world is different.  Learn to use your eyes and nose to tell you if it’s ready and act on your instincts.  If it looks good it probably is.

This next picture is the mis en place for the main dish.   We have about 1 lb of large scallops, some crimini mushrooms, frozen green peas, and flat leaf parsley.  Tyler’s recipe called for chanterelle wild mushrooms, but my store didn’t have those.  So I’m using crimini mushrooms instead.  The carrots are baby carrots.  They are sweeter and work at a scale that is more appropriate for this dish than one of the big cracked foot long jobby’s you can get in the store.  It’s best if you can get baby carrots with the greens still on.

First rinse and then thoroughly dry the scallops.  They tend to hold water and I wish I had taken the time to let them dry even more than towel drying.  The reason for this is that they do give up water as they cook and if  you are sauteing them in a good amount of olive oil there can be a lot of splatter.  They drier you can get the scallops the less they will splatter and perhaps more important is the fact that they will sear nicely and give you much better color without over cooking.

Once they’re good and dry then season them with kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper.

Put your saute pan on medium heat and let it heat up.  One trick for keeping a saute pan from sticking to the food is to get the pan hot first and then add the cold oil and let it come up to nearly smoking point temperature.  My engineering background tells me that what is happening here is that the micro fractures in the surface of the metal pan open up and expand as it is heated.  Then the oil can get into those fissures and provide a more thorough coating on the pan making it less likely to stick.  If you have trouble with food sticking even if you’re cooking with oil, make sure you remember “Hot pan, cold oil”.

Often times you can literally see the scallop cook from the bottom up.  It will go from a light translucent color to more solid white and you’ll begin to see the browning occur around the edge where the oil is touching.  Watch them carefully and flip the scallop before it cooks half way through.  You may only spend 2-3 minutes per side.  Don’t be tempted to over cook them because a scallop can get very chewy if over cooked while it will be a very pleasing sweet meat if not over cooked.

When you have finished with the scallops take them out of the pan with tongs and place them on a plate with a paper towel underneath.

Now, without cleaning the pan, add your chopped mushrooms to the pan, adding more oil first and letting it heat up if it looks particularly dry.  This is one thing that the French really perfected…using the scrapings in the bottom of the pan (they call it fond) to help flavor a sauce.  The fond or scrapings in the bottom of the pan can have some of the most concentrated flavors in your dish and you certainly don’t want to scrub that down the drain until after your meal is done.

Saute the mushrooms until they are nearly cooked and turn off the heat to make sure they don’t over cook.

It’s now on to the spring vegetables.  This is another place where I differed with Tyler’s recipe on timing.  The recipe calls for blanching the vegetables which means that you place them for a very short period of time in boiling salty water.   Because this is a very fast I disagree with his recommendation to do this much earlier on as it just give more time for the vegetables to lose their color and texture.  So I would suggest you do the vegetables at this time.

In a large flat pan, bring about 1/2″ of water up to a boil and add about 1 tbsp of salt to the water.  I start with the carrots.  As you can see from the picture, I have left a little bit of the green on.  For the ones that have a really long string point on them I would cut it back so it didn’t look like a carrot whisker.  When the water is boiling throw the carrots into the shallow water and stir them around a little to make sure they are all covered.  A carrot will turn a much brighter orange when it is being blanched like this right up until the point that you’ve over cooked it.  Personally I will err on the side of under cooking.  You can use a little wooden skewer or even the point of a paring knife to test how tender the carrot is.  Take them out of the bath right before you think they are to your liking because the heat they retain will continue to cook them.  Transfer them to a bowl and quickly run cold water over them to quench the cooking process.  Drain and set aside.

Do the same thing with the frozen peas.  Because the peas have much less mass they will cook much more quickly.  You may want to drain the peas through a strainer within about 30 seconds of them hitting the hot salty water.  They will have a wonderful green color.  Again, run cold water over them immediately to stop the cooking.  Both vegetables will be added back to the pan in order to rewarm them and all the ingredients prior to the final plating.  Quenching them under the cold water will freeze the cooking and color right where you pulled them out of the pan.

Okay, we’re into the final stretch now.  In the pan that is holding the mushrooms, rewarm it under low heat.  Place the scallops into the pan over the mushrooms.  Then place the carrots around the pan and pour the peas in last to begin warming.

While the saute pan is finishing the final warming, cut the lids off the puff pastry and arrange one per plate

Let your creative food stylings take over from here.  Place a scallop or two in the puff pastry and around the plate.  Arrange some carrots and peas over the whole plate.   With a large spoon, place a few spoonfuls of the beurre blanc sauce over the whole plate and garnish with a little chopped parsley over the top.  Stand back and admire for a couple of seconds and promptly bolt for the table with all the plates.

The beurre blanc sauce soaking into the puff pastry really brings back some memories of great French meals.  The sweet scallops and crisply blanched spring vegetables add an array of earthy and ocean tastes and texture to this wonderful dish.

What did I learn:

  • This is a reasonably complex recipe.  I would put it at a 6 on a 1-10 scale where I don’t usually even attempt things like 9’s and 10’s.
  • Get all of your ingredients ready to go first for all three portions of the dish.  The more prepared you can be will improve the feeling of how difficult this recipe is and it will very much help with the timing and making everything come together in a coordinated fashion.
  • Puff pastry cooks quickly.  Know that it takes about 15 minutes.  Get it cut and ready on a baking sheet and the oven warmed up.  Then you can time it more closely to get a nice hot steaming puff pastry to serve on the plate.
  • Using all chardonnay instead of part white wine vinegar was a good move.  The sauce was wonderful and it did not need the extra tartness that the vinegar would have imparted.

Let me know how it goes for you.

Well, it’s always nice seeing the results before you try it yourself.  So here is how mine turned out.  This recipe came from Tyler’s Ultimate on Food Network.  It was done in an episode where he was tipping his hat to France and French cooking and was preceded by a wonderful dish of seared scallops in puff pastry with a beurre blanc sauce and spring vegetables…another post coming out soon.

This dessert definitely has a French feel to it.  The light citrus flavors of the lemon pudding pair nicely with any type of mixed berries.  A powdered sugar dusting gives it some extra eye appeal and adds just a little extra sweetness.  It’s not a big filling dessert and is really refreshing at the end of a meal.  It is great visually, is not that hard to make, and can be mostly complete before a dinner party ever starts.

Here is the link to Tyler’s recipe on the Food Network: http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/tylers-ultimate/lemon-pudding-cake-with-fresh-mixed-berries-recipe/index.html

The ingredients are simple.  Two eggs separated, 2/3 cup sugar, 1 tbsp unsalted butter, 2/3 cup reduced fat buttermilk (I used full strength), 2 tbsp lemon juice, 1 tbsp lemon zest, 1/4 cup all-purpose flour, and 1/4 tsp salt.

If you’re not familiar with lemon zest, zest is the super concentrated part of the skin of a lemon, lime, orange or most any citrus fruit.  It’s where the oils of the fruit live and is often used in recipes to give big taste in a little package.  It’s always the most colorful part of the fruit.  The orange color of the orange skin.  The lemon color of the lemon skin.  You can zest with a special tool: http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=112272 or use a microplane:  http://www.cooking.com/products/brand.asp?b=0810 The microplane will do its work faster, but you have to be more careful you don’t end up shaving your knuckles.  The zester tool is useful if you’re trying to be more precise or if you’re getting zest from a smaller fruit like a Mandarin orange.  Either will work fine for this recipe.  Stay out of the pith, the white part underneath the outer skin.

Go ahead and mix the dry ingredients together in a small bowl.  Make sure you stir it around enough to mix the salt, flour, and sugar all together.  This makes it more efficient to incorporate into the mixer without over-mixing things.

Now, combine the buttermilk, egg yolks, lemon juice and lemon zest in your electric mixer and beat until it’s combined.

Make sure your mixer is on its lowest speed.  Take the bowl of dry ingredients and slowly add a little bit at a time allowing the previous hit to be mixed in.  This helps to reduce any clumping that might occur if you added all the dry ingredients at one time.  If you end up with dry ingredients on the side of the mixing bowl, go ahead and shut off the mixer and use a spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl into the mix and start it up again.

It’s time to get the ramekin baking dishes ready.  Use a paper towel and wipe it on your tablespoon of butter in order to transfer some butter onto the paper towel.  Use the paper towel to thoroughly coat all of the inside of each ramekin.  For a “normal” size ramekin this recipe will serve four individuals.   You’ll see later why this is not a recipe that works both in ramekins and in one bigger baking dish.

Once the ramekins are coated with butter, put about 2 tbsp of granulated sugar into the first ramekin.  Pick it up and “roll” the sugar around in the ramekin tilting it so that the sugar can touch and stick everywhere you coated it with butter.  Any extra sugar you just pour into the next ramekin.  Add more sugar to keep the process going until you have all the ramekins coated.  It will look like this:

At this point it would make sense to make sure your oven is preheating to 325 degrees.

What really makes this recipe is the whipped egg whites that you fold into the batter that is now in the mixer.  The two egg whites you had separated from the yolks now need to be whipped.  I suppose you could unload and clean your mixing bowl and do this in the electric mixer, but it really doesn’t take too much time to just whisk two egg whites.  Whisk them until you get stiff peaks which might take 3-4 minutes (with rest as needed) depending on how fast you can run a whisk.

Add the egg whites to the buttermilk/sugar/flour mixture.  Use your whisk to gently fold in the whipped egg whites.  You want to have a nice light mixture after you’re done.  There is no need to mix or work this so much that you start to deflate the egg whites.  Go slowly until you get to a uniform color which indicates that things are mixed together.

egg whites folded in

One of the techniques that really gives this dessert the professional feel is that you cook the ramekins in a water bath.  This might seem like overkill or too sophisticated, but it’s easy to do and you want the results that it can provide.   The water bath does two things.  First and foremost is that it provides a constant temperature mass around the ramekins and because of that can efficiently transfer heat into the dish without overcooking the sides.   Secondly, the steam produced from the water bath helps to evenly cook the top of the dish with very moist heat which keeps the top from getting crisp.

Use a small roasting pan and place it near the oven.  Because we’re about to put near boiling water in the pan you’ll want to be as close to the oven as possible to avoid any spills or other food tragedies.  If you have a tea kettle, fill it up and get it to the boiling point.  Otherwise you can use a pot on the cooktop or a large microwave safe measuring cup.  You’re going to want enough boiling water to fill the pan about 1/2 way up the sides of the ramekins.  One tea kettle was enough for me in this roasting pan that is made for small roasting, like a chicken.

Go ahead and carefully pour the hot water in the pan making sure you don’t splash any water into the cups.

water bath

Carefully transfer the entire roasting pan with ramekins into your 325 degree oven in the middle rack.  Cook for about 60 minutes.  It will rise while it cooks because of the egg whites, but will settle after.  Go ahead and watch it when it comes up to 60 minutes.  It will probably be a little bit golden on top and that is good.

out of the oven

You now have a very hot roasting pan with nearly boiling water and cooked pudding.  You need to get the ramekins out of the water bath so they don’t over cook from the sides and bottom.  I just use oven mitts, trying not to get them dipped in the water, and carefully lift each ramekin onto a cooling rack.  I’ve tried using kitchen tongs for this process, but have had some accidents if the tongs slip on the porcelain.  Not good for the food to drop it and not good for you if you end up wearing 200 degree food on your shirt.

Go ahead and let these cool down for quite a while.  Serving this warm does not really help the flavors and we’re going to be putting fresh fruit on top.  You’ll want it cool enough so that it doesn’t take the fresh feeling from the berries.  Because these need to cool that also gives you the advantage of being able to make this dessert well ahead of your dinner.

Now for the fun part.  How do you get this thing out of the ramekin?  It looks almost cake-y on the top.  But on the bottom you’ll find it is more of a pudding consistency.  This is great because we’re going to flip this thing onto a plate so the firmer part is on the plate.  Of course Tyler Florence made this look easy on the TV episode.  He turned a plate upside down and placed it over the top of the ramekin.  Then he flipped the whole thing and lifted the ramekin off and voila!  You can tell it is loose on the edge.  You can even jiggle it back and forth and see the cake shift around slightly in the ramekin…this ought to be easy.  But it’s not that straight forward because the pudding consistency on the bottom is forming what amounts to a vacuum to the bottom of the cup.

I went ahead and put the upside down plate over the ramekin and flipped it and lifted and jiggled the ramekin just to see if I could be as lucky as Tyler.  But no.  What I ended up doing was tipping the upside down ramekin up from the edge of the plate and slipping a spoon up the side so I could reach the bottom of the cup and gently lift it off the base to break the sticky connection.  The first one I did sort of wrecked what is now the top of the pudding cake.  I switched to the spoon which is more forgiving as you break the connection.  The pudding consistency still makes it possible to fix up any problems you create.

The pudding cakes are now resting comfortably on their flour plates.  You can add just about anything you want for a garnish.  Tyler did a blackberry/raspberry combination which looked great and is super easy because you don’t have do anything except wash the fruit.  Raspberries are no in season right now, but I was able to get some wonderful blackberries and strawberries.  Once combined I added about 1 tbsp of granulated sugar, mixed it in, and then let the bowl set for the fruit to slowly dissolve the sugar.  This not only adds sweetness but also gives the berries an appealing glaze.

Sprinkle your fruit topping over the pudding cakes and shake a little powdered/confectioners sugar over the top of everything.  I have a very fine little sieve that I use for this.  You’ve probably seen shakers that do this as well.  If worst comes to worst just put some powdered sugar in your hands, raise them up to a good height and rub them together.  You should have a nice powdered sugar face after that and nicely distributed powdered sugar on your dessert.

What did I learn?

  • By far and away the most hair raising thing about this was getting the pudding out of the ramekins.  I guess we always know that things look easier on TV.  I don’t want that to scare you away from trying this though.  It wasn’t that bad and if you’re not afraid to re-sculpt a bit if you don’t get it cleanly then you will really enjoy this dessert.  And of course a well placed berry can cover up a lot of problems.
  • Do you have a better suggestion for how to release these things from the ramekins?  I thought about trying to butter it up more, but I can’t convince myself this would actually help as I think any extra butter or sugar would simply dissolve into the pudding.
  • Maybe I need to try to release it right away as soon as it’s cool enough to handle.  Would that make it easier?  I don’t know and will have to try that next time.
  • This would be a great dessert to make ahead of time as it doesn’t need to be either warm or cold to serve.  You could certainly chill it beforehand if you have the space in your refrigerator.