Pear-Cardamom Pie with Almond Crust

You may have let this little jewel slip by, but recently Bon Appetit published a huge dessert recipe book.  It can be found at most major bookstores or on Amazon at:

http://www.amazon.com/Bon-Appetit-Desserts-Cookbook-Wonderful/dp/0740793527/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1295127505&sr=8-1

I’ll go on record as saying I think this book is going to be a classic dessert book.  There are so many great recipes that cover a huge range of tastes.  I think it will be a go-to book for many cooks for many years to come and I expect to turn to it often.

I’ve had the photos from this recipe done for a few months now, but haven’t had the time to write it up.  I originally did this as the birthday pie for my wife Nedda.  We both like the taste of cardamom as it lends an exotic flavor, one that she grew up with.  Of all the cooking I’ve done I can honestly say I haven’t made a lot of pies.  So I expected this to be a learning experience, particularly since marzipan, the almond paste flavoring, is in the crust.  Great pies always look so good, but I wasn’t sure how mine would turn out.  I’m happy to say I was pleased with the crust and the flavors of this recipe.

Epicurious.com publishes Bon Appétit recipes and this one can be found online at:

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Pear-Cardamom-Pie-with-Almond-Crust-100327

Ingredients

For crust

  • 2 3/4 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 7-ounce package marzipan or almond paste, coarsely crumbled
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 5 tablespoons chilled solid vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 5 tablespoons (about) pear nectar
  • 1/2 teaspoon almond extract

For filling

  • 1/3 cup (packed) dark brown sugar
  • 1 vanilla bean, coarsely chopped
  • 3 tablespoons cornstarch
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 3 pounds firm but ripe Bartlett pears, peeled, halved, cored, cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch-thick wedges
  • 2 tablespoons pear nectar
  • 1 egg, beaten to blend (for glaze)
  • 1 tablespoon sugar

Ingredients for Pear-Cardamom Pie with Almond Crust

Most of these ingredients can be found at your grocery store, including cardamom.  It’s just not a spice that we normally use day in and day out.  But if you look close at the spice rack in your grocery store you’ll probably find it.  I was unable to find pear nectar, but ended up substituting apricot nectar instead.

If there was one thing I would do differently next time it would be to make sure the pears were perfectly ripe.  The ones I had were a little firm and I thought they would soften up a lot during baking, but they turned out to be on the soft side of crunchy.  I’m sure it would have been more flavorful if they had been more ripe.  That’s not a fault of the recipe, just a fault of my impatience to try this dessert.

In a food processer, blend the flour, marzipan, and salt together.

Blend flour, marzipan, and salt in food processerBlended flour, marzipan, and salt

Next, add the butter and the shortening and blend together until it’s a course meal.  Make sure the butter is chilled again after you have cubed it prior to placing in the food processer.  As most any good dessert chef will tell you, cold butter is the key to making a flaky crust.  If you put it in too warm or work the dough too much then it won’t be as flaky.  Because the food processer blade is putting a lot of energy into the dough to get it mixed up, the dough will also start to rise in temperature.  This is one reason why you want to start with chilled butter.

Add butter and shortening

In a small bowl, combine the 3 tbsp of pear nectar and almond extract.  Begin to add this liquid mixture to the dough and as you continue to work the dough it will begin to come together in clumps and balls.  When you see this happening, stop and take off the lid and use your fingers to squeeze a small bit together.  You want it to stay together and not crumble otherwise when you try to roll it out it will not stay together.  You want to stop just when the dough hangs together to the pinch.  If it doesn’t, then add a little more liquid and a little more processing until you’re there.

Marzipan pie crust dough

Remove the dough to a board.  Divide it into two pieces and wrap each with plastic wrap.  Flatten each piece into a round disk and refrigerate for at least two hours.  The recipe says that you can do these steps up to a day ahead of time.  I’m sure that could work well if you’re looking to offload some work from the day you cook.

Next, chop up the whole vanilla bean into 1/4″ segments.  This is just breaking the bean down so it will be easier to break up with the food processer and combine with the brown sugar.  Depending on how hard the vanilla bean is, this could take a minute or more in the processer.

Blend brown sugar and vanilla bean

After the vanilla bean is cut up really well, add the corn starch and ground cardamom.  Process the mixture until it is very fine.

Blended brown sugar and vanilla bean

Peel, core, and chop up the pears into 1/4″ to 1/2″ pieces.  Add them to a large bowl along with the brown sugar, cardamom, and vanilla bean mixture.  Add the pear nectar for moisture and toss to coat all the pear.  Set aside.

Pear-Cardamom pie filling

After the marzipan dough has had time to chill again and rest in the refrigerator, remove one disk from the plastic wrap on top of a floured piece of parchment paper.  Begin to roll out the dough into a roughly circular shape.  It might be easier if you place a second piece of parchment paper over the top as that can help keep the roller from sticking to the dough.  Of course you want to coat your roller with flour to help control any sticking.

This might be a good time to preheat your oven to 400 degrees F.

Roll out bottom layer of pie dough

Carefully place the rolled out dough in a 9″ pie plate and center it.  If you happen to tear it while putting it down simply press a little dough on each side toward the tear and merge it back together.

Place bottom layer in baking dish

Use a simple butter knife or other implement with an edge on it to trim the crust to the edge of the baking dish.

Pour the pie filling on top of the bottom crust and spread it out evenly in the dish.

Place pie filling

Roll the next disk of dough out on parchment paper just like you did for the bottom layer.  Position the top layer over the pie.

Roll out and place top layer of pie

Trim the excess dough off by using a knife around the edge of the pie plate.  Using your fingers, press the outer edge and two layers of dough together in a decorative shape similar to what you see below.

Beat one egg in a small bowl and brush the top of the crust, but not the edges, with the egg and sprinkle the entire top with a little layer of sugar.  Between the egg wash and the sugar you will get a nice crispy top to your pie.  With a small prep knife, cut several slits into the top layer.  This helps let the steam from the pears escape during the baking process.

Cut slots, egg wash, crimp edges, and sprinkle with sugar

Bake the pie for 15 minutes at 400.  Then cover the edge with a layer of aluminum foil to keep it from browning too much.  They make special crust protection rings for this purpose and after I did this one I went out and got a crust ring because it’s a pain to fashion one on top of a pie that has already been in the oven at a high temperature.  Continue baking the pie at 400 degrees for approximately 40 more minutes until the crust is golden brown.  This hopefully happens at the same time that the pears get tender and if you have selected ripe pears then you don’t have to worry about them getting tender enough.  Just watch the crust and pull the pie when you like what you see.

Remove the pie from the oven and let it cool for 1 1/2 hours.  This will let the pie filling set up a little bit and of course you can’t bite into a 400 degree pie right away anyway.

When it’s time, whip up some of your favorite cream or a nice rich scoop of vanilla ice cream to go along and enjoy it.  Let me know how it goes.

Baked pear cardamom pie with almond crust


Potato, Greens, and Goat Cheese Quesadillas

This recipe is a favorite that I haven’t used often enough.  As with most things quesadilla related, there is a wide range of creative things you can do with one.  This recipe is full of flavor and hearty enough to be a meal by itself or fulfill the appetizer role as well.  This article is attempting to follow the Bon Appétit recipe found at the URL below on Epicurious.  My deviations (deviance some might say) comes from either not finding the exact ingredients or just going off course for the heck of it.

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Potato-Greens-and-Goat-Cheese-Quesadillas-241607

The recipe calls for mustard greens which my local stores don’t carry.  I love Swiss chard and so I have substituted this nutritious leafy green instead.  I only noticed now when looking at this photo that I had purchased light sour cream…wow, didn’t mean to do that.  Have to say I didn’t actually notice…hmmm…must be slipping in my old age.

I bought this particular log of goat cheese because by the time I found it I realized the crumbled goat cheese was all the way on the other side of the store and I was just a bit too interested in leaving.  This was a great tasting cheese though and so I wasn’t disappointed.  I’m sure you could use prepared crumbled feta and be quite happy.

I washed the chard very well while it was still in leaf form.  Then I did a rough chop on it and rinsed it again and dried it in a salad spinner.  The recipe called for 4 2/3 cups of coarsly chopped stemmed mustard greens and I’m pretty sure this bunch of Swiss chard, when stemmed and chopped, added up to about that.  I was not short of greens nor did I have any leftover, so it worked out just right.

Shown is about 1 and 1/3 cups of diced Yukon Gold potatoes.  This was almost exactly one potato.  When I do this over again I’m going to add about another 1/2 potato as the quesadilla can definitely handle it and I like the extra filling and texture.

The goat cheese log I had was pretty soft.  Enough that it wasn’t exactly crumbled in this photo.  After I took this shot I actually put this ramekin with the feta into the freezer for about 15-20 minutes.  That was just right to firm it up so that later I was able to crumble it as I wanted.

Mis en place prepped

First, add the potatoes to a steaming basket of some type.  I’m showing one level of a bamboo steamer which I like to use.  You could even do this covered in a small baking dish in the microwave.  Many of you will have a stainless steaming basket and that will work great as well.

steamer

Let the potatoes steam for about 8 minutes.  You don’t want to over cook them because having them just a little bit firm adds to the texture of the dish.  Once steamed, transfer them to a bowl and liberally salt and pepper them.  Now you need to let them cool down for a while because as soon as they’re cool we’re going to mix in the grated jack pepper cheese.  If you have room in your refrigerator you could certainly speed the cooling process up by placing the bowl in your refrigerator for a few minutes.

While you’re waiting for the potatoes to cool down, add 1 1/3 cups of jarred tomatillo salsa to a food processor and then add just 2/3 of a cup of the chopped greens in with it.  Process that until the greens are very finely chopped.

Swiss chard and tomatillo salsa

After the potatoes have had a chance to cool down, mix in the 2 tsp of chili powder.

Now add the grated pepper jack cheese.  Honestly I can’t figure out why they have you do this.  I don’t really see a good reason for it.  It doesn’t hurt, but it just doesn’t make any sense to me.  It’s not like the chili powder or salt and pepper that use the potatoes as their ride around the dish.  Here’s what I’m thinking next time…skip the cool down process that the recipe calls for and then just add the pepper jack onto the quesadilla when you’re assembling it.  This seems like a superfluous Bon Appétit style step to me making it more complex than it needs to be with no discernible advantage.  Perhaps someone will comment to give me some ideas why they would do it this way.

On a flat surface, lay out four 8″ tortillas.  Divide the remaining chopped Swiss chard onto each tortilla.  Divide the potato/pepper jack mixture over the top of that.

Quesadilla assembly

Spoon about two tablespoons of the tomatillo salsa/chard mixture over the top of each tortilla.  You will end up with extra that you can use as a side garnish for those who want more.  Personally I think I will add a little bit more than the two tablespoons next time.

At this point I took the feta that I had chilling in the freezer and then further crumbled it over the top of each tortilla.

It’s almost a shame that we don’t stop here because this is about as good looking as this dish gets.

Quesadilla assembly with goat cheese

In their recipe they have you then fold this onto itself.  I would suggest you don’t and proceed to cook this with another tortilla topping it.  It’s going to be a lot easier and the ingredients are already plenty thick so that doubling its thickness will only serve to make it harder to eat.  Because I cooked these flat, I pulled out my dual burner pancake griddle, heated it up, and added some olive oil to it and spread it around on the griddle.  Then I placed two of the filled tortillas at a time on the griddle.  As soon as it was down I placed a tortilla over the top of each one and then pressed firmly down on both.  Then brush a little more olive oil over the top of each one so that when you flip it you will get the top side crispy and brown too.

Don’t use too high of heat as you’ll want the heat from the griddle to make its way into the middle, enough to melt the pepper jack cheese and put some heat on the goat cheese.  If you use the right heat then by the time it’s warm in the middle it will start to have some brown color too.  I don’t quite remember how long I gave it.  Just use your spatula to pick up and edge for a peek underneath.  You’ll know when the right time is.  Go ahead and carefully flip it and let it start to brown up on the other side.

Transfer the heated quesadilla to a cutting board.  Use your long chef’s knife to cut it into quarters or use a pizza cutter to do it.

In the final photos I transferred the remaining tomatillo/chard salsa to a ramekin.  Then I spooned some sour cream into a small bowl and sprinkled a little chili pepper over the top.  And of course the last step is adding the quesadilla to the platter.

Hero 4 Top 566

What have I learned here?

  • Perhaps the hardest thing to do is to actually get a photograph that makes this look as good as it tastes.  The tomatillo salsa is great and it marries well with the potatoes, pepper jack, and chard.  As I mentioned above next time I would consider adding more than the two tablespoons of the salsa inside the quesadilla.
  • Chard is not the most tender leaf in the world.  All of the cooking of this leaf happens when you’re warming the quesadilla on the griddle.  I like vegetables and greens like this when they are not over cooked.  However, you could do a quick saute of the greens prior to adding them to the quesadilla if you want them to be more tender.  Also, you can be more aggressive in separating the leaf and stem.  The red part of the chard stem is definitely tougher.  When you’re prepping this you can easily cut the leaf on each side of the stem and remove almost all of the stem if you want to.  You lose some of the nice red color it brings to the dish, but if you don’t like the extra texture then it’s worth it.
  • Also, next time I will steam a little bit more of the Yukon potato.  Having a bit more will give you some more flexibility on how hearty you can make each individual one if you have a big appetite in your crowd.

Let me know how yours turns out.

Thai food is known for its very bright citrus flavors and tasty herbs like basil, cilantro, green onions, and lemon grass.  Coconut is an ingredient that is often present, but this is no dessert.  A while back I spent some time looking for a great Thai curry soup and came across this recipe.  This dish I’m doing here is an adaptation and inspired by a recipe I pulled from Epicurious which was for a curried chicken coconut soup.  (http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Curried-Chicken-Coconut-Soup-108607)  I honestly have never done the Epicurious recipe because I instantly veered off into shrimp/prawns and have been refining it since the first time I saw it.  This recipe is easy to do and brings in many of the tastes of Thai cooking.

First off I wanted a good Thai soup with some of the large prawns or shrimp that I could find at my local Costco.  I also wanted it to be a bit more hearty and have added rice as well.  Much of the rest of the recipe is similar, but I will tell you where I deviated as I go.

Here are the basic ingredients I used.

This is not a recipe that requires a great deal of precision and you can definitely bend it to your taste and what you can find at your grocery store.  Probably the hardest ingredient to find is the lemon grass.  I am able to find it packaged at my Whole Foods store and loose by the stem at Safeway.  But many other stores don’t carry it including the little local market nearby.  If you are in a place where it can’t be found then I would suggest ordering some dried lemon grass as a crushed herb from one of the online markets.  You might also check in your area for a specialty spice store.  Here in the Boulder area we’re lucky to have a spice shop called Savory.  I recently purchased some dried lemon grass from them which I plan to use if I can’t find freshly prepared lemon grass.

I usually start by getting the rice going.  I like rice to wait for me and I don’t like waiting on rice.  You can use any number of types of rice.  I’m using Basmati in this case, but a good medium grain rice will work well too.  I always toast it first by pouring a little olive oil in the bottom of the pot under medium heat and stirring the dry rice around in it.  What you’re doing is covering the rice with oil which helps to bind the starch, making the rice so it won’t stick to itself, and the heat helps to give the rice a nuttier flavor and also does speed the cooking along.  Don’t get it too brown, but if you can start to smell the nutty aromas then you’re good to go.  I add about 1 1/2 cups of water at this point.  It will steam and boil very quickly because of the hot pan and oil.  Go ahead and throw the lid on and take a peek at it in 15 minutes or so to see how it’s doing.  Personally I can never leave the lid on a pot of rice the whole time and take it off the cook top at precisely the right time and have it perfect.  Maybe that’s because I use a lot of different kinds of rice in different quantities and different pots.   So I look and sometimes stir it around to see if there is any water in the bottom and make a guess as to how much longer it needs.  Once it’s done just take it off the heat and let it be.  It doesn’t really matter how cool it gets because it will be added to the hot soup later.

Next, grate a tablespoon of fresh ginger.  You can cut pieces and run it through your garlic press, but you’ll have easier and better results if you get  yourself one of these little ginger graters.  The little nubs do a good job of separating the ginger from the stringy fibers that pervade the root.  Use your vegetable peeler to skin the ginger and then just rub it up and down on the grater tilted into a small bowl.

Next, do a very fine chop on your lemon grass.  You’ll want about 1.5 tbsp when you’re done.  And when I say finely chop I’m serious.  Lemon grass is a very stout stem.  Even with the pressure cooker it can be a little chewy and distracting in the dish.  So chop it up about as fine as you can get.  It doesn’t take long to do because it is so crisp and we don’t use too much.

If you haven’t already done it, chop up your green onions to get 3/4 of a cup.

Alright now.  The recipe calls for a pressure cooker.  We have one now for other reasons, but it’s nice to have for this recipe to get the lemon grass cooked soft and to help all of the flavors come together more quickly.  If you don’t have a pressure cooker, that’s okay.  Just make sure you really have that lemon grass chopped up fine and then be prepared to simmer the liquids with a good lid on the pot for maybe 1/2 hour or so.

How many pressure cookers does a person buy in one lifetime?  Not many.  This is my first, but I can heartily recommend it.  These things have come a long way in since the early days and can be much quieter and extremely safe.  Gone are the days where the heavy thimble bounded around on top of the pressure cooker and spaghetti sauce paints the walls in an inadvertent explosion.  This model from Kuhn is nearly silent.

Instead of the 3 cups of chicken broth the Epicurious recipe calls for, I put in four cups which amounts to the entire carton of chicken stock if you buy it that way.  I need more stock because of the rice that we’re adding later.  Add in all of the other ingredients to the pot…13.5 oz can of unsweetened coconut milk, 3/4 cup chopped green onions, 2.5 tbsp of your favorite curry powder, 1.5 tbsp of chopped lemon grass, and 1 tbsp minced or grated ginger.

A word about coconut milk – Don’t buy low fat coconut milk and if the truth be told, I don’t buy organic coconut milk either.  Both counts give up less flavor.  Perhaps one of you can make a suggestion for a good organic coconut milk with great flavor.  I would love to hear it.

You can bring the soup to a boil and put the lid on the cooker, or just throw it all in and crank the heat.  With my pressure cooker once it has come up to pressure then simply the lowest heat on the burner will keep it there.  Your mileage will vary.  The photo below shows my model and what the cooker looks like when it’s at pressure.  As the pressure comes up, the little column in the middle starts to rise.  Half pressure is at the first red bars.  Full pressure is at the second set of red bars.  This model has an automatic pressure release if things get going too much and it will make a slow hissing sound as it lets off steam.

Once the pot has come up to pressure, reset the heat to low and let it pressure cook for about 10 minutes.  Again, not precise, but the main thing we’re doing here is getting the flavors together and softening up the lemon grass.

Next you can turn your attention to the prawns.  If you have a Costco or other warehouse store or a particularly good fish counter, you’ll have a good selection of different kinds of shrimp or prawns.  Shrimp is sold on a numerical system where the number equates to the range of how many pieces per pound you will get.  Higher numbers mean the shrimp is smaller.  Lower numbers give you big shrimp per pound, but fewer individuals.  For this recipe I’ve found that the 13-15 range works really well.  This is because I don’t like the texture of little shrimp and love the meatier prawns.  Also, small shrimp don’t really have the flair that this dish needs.   You can get larger shrimp than 13-15, but they get unwieldy and much more expensive for no extra value.  I would still serve a fork and knife with this dish along with a good soup spoon so that it’s possible for your guests to cut the shrimp into pieces.

Depending on how you buy the shrimp you may be in for more work.  The type I buy at Costco still are in the shell, but they have been de-veined.  The process of de-veining slices the shell open on the back.  This slice makes it very easy to peel the prawn.  This is perhaps another reason why you want to buy a little larger shrimp since there is less to prep.  These particular guys can be de-shelled by hand without a knife.  I love to have plenty of prawns and so in this recipe I will measure out about 1.25 lbs of prawns (shell on weight).

Your shrimp is now ready.  On a cutting board, slice a couple of limes in half and reem them or squeeze the heck out of them into small bowl.  We’re looking for about 3 tbsp of fresh squeezed lime juice.  Avoid the temptation of the bottle, but by all means use it if that’s what you have.  Fresh will taste better.

While you’re at it, use a third lime and slice it into wedges for a garnish and a little extra pop for those who really like it bright.

You can use the quick-release method of bringing your pressure cooker down by running cool water over the lid and sides.  When the pressure is released remove the top.  Everything will be together nicely and you’ll have a nice bright yellow soup base to finish

Now, go ahead and put the prawns in to start cooking in the hot soup.  Depending on whether they are near room temperature or just out of the refrigerator you may need to put the pot back on low heat to make sure they get cooked through.  You definitely do not need to bring it back to a boil as that would easily overcook the prawns.

Add the lime juice and 6 oz of spinach.  The spinach amount is not precise.  It will wilt down so put a good amount in.  But you can add more or less depending on how much green you want.

Add your rice.  Again, you can add less or even leave it out if you want.  Stir the prawns, rice, and spinach around to get them mixed together.

It’s always good to start sampling the product at this point.  You may want to add some more lime juice or even perhaps a dash of salt.  I’ve cooked this many times and it can and will taste different each time, so use your taste buds to show you the way.

Use a flat soup ladle to dish this up.  You may need to reach into the bottom to pull up some rice for each bowl or selectively pull shrimp out to balance everything so one guest doesn’t get jealous of the next for having more.  To your taste, use some additional chopped onion chives and chopped cilantro as a garnish over the top.

In summary, this is a great first Thai soup dish to make.  It’s quite easy and very forgiving.  It has many wonderful flavors.  It’s bright, just like what you think of with Thai dishes.  You have a lot of options to add your own taste and flair without messing it up.

Let me know how yours comes out.

What did I learn?

-I’ve been doing this recipe for quite some time.  There are a few things I keep in mind even after doing it many times.

  • The flavors are so bright that the taste of this soup will change over the course of an hour.  Expect to be surprised as it goes, even when having the leftovers.
  • Do some taste sampling soon after the last ingredients go in, particularly for lime flavor and salt.  There are times when I never add any salt and sometimes I do.  There are times when I add more lime or make sure that there is extra lime at the table for those people who like the extra pop.

- I learned that I was unsure of the difference between a shrimp and a prawn.  I found this article amusing that sort of clarifies the common usage of a big shrimp as being  a prawn, but there are more scientific distinctions.   For the type we’re using you’re probably not going to go wrong calling it a prawn.  http://elyclarifies.blogspot.com/2005/03/shrimp-vs-prawns.html

- This is also a great soup to be used as an appetizer.  Using a very small soup cup or ice cream cup, ladle soup into the bowl with some spinach and rice.  Then top it with a single prawn and sprinkle with cilantro.